By: Maria Williams
Under the influence of globalization and technological innovation, the fashion world is undergoing major changes. Designers are required to integrate traditional craftsmanship with trendy concepts to fulfill market demands and sustainability needs. ZuRui Chen, with his cross-disciplinary skills and innovative spirit, stands out in this competitive industry by merging traditional techniques with new technologies, injecting fresh vitality into fashion.
ZuRui Chen began his design journey at Otis College of Art and Design in Los Angeles in 2015, earning his Bachelor’s Degree. During his four years at Otis, he mastered the basic skills of garment-making through learning from industry luminaries such as Jason Wu and Edurado Castro. After graduating in 2019 with his Bachelor’s Degree, Chen immersed himself in various roles within the industry. His role as a showroom assistant nurtured his management abilities and communication skills. In 2020, Chen joined the digital brand BOBP as the Chief Clothing Designer and Brand Director, a role that not only challenged his design talent but also tested his brand vision and market strategy formulation skills. At BOBP, Chen’s work encompassed design innovation, product development, and brand image shaping.
In 2021, Chen entered the School of the Art Institute of Chicago for further studies, where he earned a Master of Design (MDES) degree in Fashion Design. Chen delved deeper into refining his design and garment-making skills. During his two years as a graduate student under the guidance of Nick Cave, he gradually mastered how to break away from a commercial perspective and create from the artistry and performance aspects of fashion, laying a solid foundation for becoming a versatile designer. After a year of preparation, ZuRui Chen polished his graduation portfolio, Coronation Campus, comprising five unique looks. This portfolio is an artistic summary of his educational journey and a deep exploration of art through the unique medium of fashion design, perfectly blending personal growth, artistic understanding, and fashion innovation. From design to pattern making and garment construction, Chen completed everything on his own. This series, as a showcase of six years of learning in fashion design, also heralds the beginning of a career as an independent designer after leaving school.
This unique clothing series draws inspiration from classic operas by Puccini and vivid stage performances, as well as the “Lexi’s Play” episode from HBO’s “Euphoria.” Each piece reflects Chen’s personal experiences and emotional conveyance. Chen believes the essence of fashion lies in character shaping and storytelling. Through design, he reflects on life and personal experiences, conveying emotions and messages. For him, each garment is a vivid narrator, merging innovation with stories, bridging reality with art, and showcasing the intersection of the inner world and the external environment.
Look 1: Courtain I
The first piece features a velvet dress and an exquisite headpiece as its main elements, symbolizing passion. This work expresses ZuRui’s love for fashion and art, as well as the passion for pursuing dreams, through its rich textures and deep colors. It represents not only an aesthetic pursuit but also a display of emotions and ideals during the personal growth journey.
Look 2: Uniform
The second piece draws inspiration from school uniforms, presenting an image of a “contradictory” yet “balanced” scholar through the combination of a velvet dress, plaid fabric, and satin underskirt. This design reflects the complexity and diversity of the pursuit of knowledge, as well as the richness and depth of the individual’s inner world. The pattern on each layer of the underskirt varies slightly, with the perfect pairing of the top and bottom layers symbolizing the combination of theoretical knowledge and practical experience.
Look 3: Wrecker
The third piece, made from recyclable denim and mirrored PVC sheets, is dedicated to all who dare to challenge the status quo and bravely express themselves. With its raw surface and the shattered glass effect on the mirrored PVC, this work showcases an impulsive and carefree character. Through this piece, ZuRui praises the spirit of freedom and highlights the importance of finding and establishing one’s identity during growth.
Look 4: Dr.Horse
The fourth piece visually creates the illusion of a horse, symbolizing strength, protection, and firm determination. Using horseshoe nails to support the shape and complemented by faux fur, this work conveys a knight-like protective spirit, symbolizing the courage and strength needed on the educational journey, as well as confidence and protection for the future.
Look 5: Curtain II
The final piece of the portfolio is a wedding dress, accompanied by a graduation cap, headpiece, and veil, symbolizing the journey’s end and the celebration of dedication. Using traditional haute couture techniques and handmade pleats at a 1:2.5 ratio, this work demonstrates respect for craftsmanship and the pursuit of beauty. The design not only revisits the journey’s beginning but also looks forward to the future, symbolizing a new beginning.
Exploring ZuRui Chen’s graduation series, Coronation: Campus, one can see it not only showcases an educational journey made of passion, knowledge, strength, protection, and dedication but also reflects the designer’s deep understanding and unique insights into fashion, art, and life.
In 2023, ZuRui Chen joined Stilllife as a part-time Creative Director, starting his journey of bridging art and fashion. He planned a series of art fairs and pop-up performances, cleverly integrating his understanding of fashion and design into innovative 2D and 3D brand concepts, successfully shaping Stilllife’s unique and appealing visual identity. Chen not only played a role in creative direction but also actively collaborated with renowned partners like V Magazine, Giphy Art, and Harpers Gagosian to plan exhibitions and major events, significantly enhancing Stilllife’s brand image.
Currently, Chen is in the process of preparing his new individual ready-to-wear collection, steadfastly dedicating himself to innovation while expanding the narrative potency of materials. This collection is set to continue probing the depths of storytelling, challenging the sensory limits of its audience through inventive layouts and audacious designs. The community looks forward to witnessing a visual and emotional feast when these works are unveiled.
Published by: Nelly Chavez
