By: Rachel Lee
In today’s ever-evolving dining landscape—where culinary trends often flare up and vanish overnight, and new spots open with fanfare only to sometimes fade into obscurity—Odessa Mama has done something uncommon: it has endured. What began as a single, quietly confident restaurant rooted in the sunlit flavors of Odessa has grown into a five-location chain with a devoted following and a pulse that beats with heritage and innovation. At the heart of this transformation is brand chef Evgeny Molyako, a culinary leader who builds not just menus but meaning.
Evgeny didn’t step into Odessa Mama to maintain the status quo—he came with intent. From his first days in the kitchen, he recognized something that others may have missed: the food was soulful, the concept sincere, but the brand seemed to be drifting. It offered comfort, yes—but in a city crowded with culinary competition, comfort alone might not have been enough. The challenge wasn’t simply improving dishes. It was reawakening a potentially dormant identity.
Over five years, Evgeny guided Odessa Mama’s metamorphosis from a single neighborhood favorite into a cohesive restaurant group that now serves an estimated more than 1,000 guests weekly. But numbers were never the goal—they were a byproduct of something deeper. His mission was to grow without losing sight of what mattered most: the emotional anchor that made the restaurant feel like home. The scale would follow, but only if the soul came first.
The shift began in the kitchen—but not just through recipes. For Evgeny, the kitchen was the nerve center of any restaurant, a space where the process could elevate passion. He streamlined operations, reworked workflow, and introduced systems that reportedly shaved service times by nearly a third. These weren’t mechanical changes; they were liberating ones. With efficiency came headspace—for the team to refine flavors, elevate plating, and pursue consistency without stifling creativity.
Staff development wasn’t an afterthought—it was a cornerstone. Believing that restaurant culture grows person-to-person, not top-down, Evgeny launched a mentorship program that did more than train—it transformed. Line cooks became thinkers. Prep staff became leaders. Under his guidance, recipes became tools for growth, not just instructions to follow. Turnover reportedly dropped. Confidence rose. Many of those early mentees now helm kitchens themselves, carrying forward not just skills but values.
Even as the brand evolved, Evgeny remained rooted in the cuisine that inspired it. He had no interest in chasing trends at the cost of authenticity. Instead, he sought to elevate tradition through nuance. Innovations were precise, never flashy: a slow-cooked sous-vide branzino that held its silken texture, a fermented vegetable garnish that brought tension and lift to a centuries-old dish. These were gestures of respect, not reinvention—each one reinforcing the emotional core of the cuisine.
Seasonality, once a background consideration, became a driving force. With every shift in weather and harvest, the menu responded—not reactively, but intentionally. Local produce met Odessa’s sensibility in ways that felt both surprising and inevitable. A reimagined moussaka arrived with Mediterranean grace notes. Classic appetizers got new depth through wild greens, house-made pickles, and the quiet artistry of restraint. The dishes didn’t just change—they evolved.
But for Evgeny, food was always about more than what was on the plate. It was about connection. Under his direction, Odessa Mama began to stretch beyond the format of a restaurant, curating cultural experiences that invited guests to see—and taste—the bigger picture. Thematic dinners, regional tastings, and immersive masterclasses weren’t just calendar events. They were stories in motion. They turned patrons into participants and meals into memories.
The results appear to speak louder than any campaign ever could. The restaurant grew not only in size, but in stature. With five thriving locations and a team of over 150, the chain earned critical acclaim and regional food festival honors. Its digital presence, once an afterthought, became an extension of the brand’s voice—intimate, vibrant, human. Engagement on social media reportedly tripled, driven not by gimmicks, but by storytelling that echoed the warmth of the dining room.
Yet if you ask Evgeny what he’s most proud of, it likely won’t be the numbers, or the growth, or even the awards. It’s the way people feel when they walk through the door. His leadership style—disciplined but generous, structured yet deeply human—has created not just a brand but a feeling. With over 15 years in the kitchen, he’s risen from line cook to brand chef, not by chasing titles but by staying curious, staying present, and never losing sight of the why behind the work.
As he puts it: “Cooking is an art that comes to life on a plate. Every flavor tells a story, and I strive to tell them through my dishes.”
In a city where restaurants flicker in and out like candlelight, Evgeny Molyako has built something that appears enduring. He’s shown that innovation doesn’t always require disruption. Sometimes, the most radical thing you can do is stay rooted—grow carefully, listen closely, and let the soul of a place lead the way forward.
Explore Evgeny’s culinary adventures and creations on Instagram: @molyako
About the Author
Rachel Lee is a writer and food critic. She likes to explore the people behind the delicious food people eat and deep-dive into their mindsets. On her days off, Rachel enjoys baking sourdough bread and trying out new recipes she finds online.
Published by Joseph T.
