By: Lexi Wolf
Veerays, the new Indian speakeasy in Midtown, is the brainchild of Michelin-starred Chef Hemant Mathur, restaurateur Sonny Solomon, and Chef Binder Saini. Blending traditional Indian flavors and drawing inspiration from the roaring 1920s, Veerays is bringing a new perspective to Indian cuisine. “I wanted to do something different than what everybody else is doing,” Solomon said. “The best way to describe this place is sexy and sophisticated with Bollywood beats.”
Solomon brings his extensive expertise to the project. Having honed his skills under culinary giants such as Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Orr, David Burke, and Geoffrey Zakarian, Solomon is well-versed in the art of upscale dining. His past ventures — like Kurry Qulture, Tulsi, and Veeray da Dhaba — have been critically acclaimed, and with Veerays, he sets the bar even higher. In collaboration with Mathur, the first Indian chef in the U.S. to earn a Michelin star, Solomon aims to provide an unparalleled dining experience where exotic Indian flavors meet the glamor of the Prohibition era.
One of a Kind Decor
At Veerays, the dining experience begins before you enter the space, with only a brass triangle marking the unassuming exterior. The interior, designed by the visionary architectural duo Vinciane Albrecht and Anne Carcelen — co-founders of OulipO Architecture Studio — cultivates an ambiance that transports guests to the era of Prohibition. OulipO’s reputation for creating immersive environments shines through, as every detail is custom-made and reflects the charm of a speakeasy.
The blend of old-world elegance with contemporary touches creates a captivating atmosphere, enhanced by the luxurious materials used throughout the space. From red velvet booths to cognac leather to brass and mahogany, the space vibrates with the essence of Art Deco yet feels modern and fresh. The lamps, designed and crafted by Maison Paul Bonnotte, further elevate the setting. Each light fixture, created from noble materials such as brass, stone, and leather, exudes the ambiance of the 1920s. The craftsmanship and attention to detail ensure that every corner of Veerays enhances the dining experience.
Upscale Indian
At the heart of Veerays is, of course, the food. Chef Hemant Mathur has crafted a menu that pays homage to traditional Indian cuisine while embracing the spirit of the 1920s. The menu begins with a selection of “Swanky Starters,” including Avni’s Prohibition Bhaji — a vegetable curry cooked in tomato gravy with a soft pav roll — and Vintage Rajasthani Sule — lamb marinated with fiery red chilies, Indian spices, kachri, and hung yogurt. Dishes like the Vintage Rajasthani Sule — lamb marinated with fiery red chilies and hung yogurt — and Bootlegger Bison — a modern take on a South Indian pepper fry — reflect this fusion of old and new. “We work on flavors rather than keeping it spicy and hot. Our food is elevated Indian, and served gourmet style with beautiful presentation,” Solomon explained.
The menu offers an array of “Showstoppers” that promise to dazzle diners. The Rogan Josh — a slow-braised lamb shank with Kashmiri chilies —, the Camel Seekh Kebab, and Duck Vindaloo with caramelized onions and coconut rice are just a few highlights. Tandoor-grilled meats, labeled as “Prime Picks,” include The Don’s Lamb Chops served with pear chutney, a specialty of Chef Hemant. The Retro Style section includes beloved dishes like Madame Makhani, a traditional butter chicken or paneer in a rich tomato fenugreek sauce for those who crave the classics. Also offered is a tasting menu of exotic meats, such as ostrich, kangaroo, yak, and alligator. But no Indian meal is complete without naan, and Veerays offers creative takes on the classic bread with flavors like rosemary-mint, olive-garlic, and coconut naan.
Desserts & Drinks
The “Giggle Water” cocktail menu is a tribute to the Prohibition era, with classic 1920s drinks named after infamous gangsters. The Diamond Joe — a refreshing take on the French 75 — and Charles ‘King’ Solomon — a modern Sidecar — are just two options that complement the restaurant’s theme.
To conclude the meal on a sweet note, Veerays’ dessert offerings are as imaginative as the main courses. The Masquerade Ball features gulab jamun in a rich rabri sauce, while A Killer Cake offers layers of decadent chocolate indulgence. Solomon’s primary goal is to leave diners in a state of happiness, and although the food is exceptional, he also wants to exude a sense of playfulness. “It’s not just a ‘fine dining’ Indian restaurant. It’s a ‘fun dining’ Indian restaurant,” he said.
Published by Zane L.
